Making the ivory enamel dial of Louis Erard’s new regulator takes five to seven coats on average, and every firing risks cracks, bubbles or a shift in colour.
Louis Erard today introduces Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel, limited to 99 pieces. It is the first time the brand has used grand feu enamel on a regulator, with a dial made using the traditional techniques of Donzé Cadrans S.A.
Enamel is a blend of minerals fused into glass in an oven heated to around 800°C, which gives grand feu its name. Donzé Cadrans, which the release calls a pioneering force in the field since 1972, also fuses the two-colour inscriptions in the final firing. The brand says that is why the process has become so rare.
The dial is slightly speckled ivory, with the hour counter at 12 o’clock and the seconds counter at 6 highlighting its two-tone enamel details. The polished steel case is 39mm across, and the automatic Sellita SW266-1 shows through a transparent black case back.
Louis Erard says every enamel dial is inherently unique and, unlike a conventional dial, its colour is unalterable.
The Basics
Brand: Louis Erard
Model: Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel
Reference: 85248AA54.BVA153
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 12.82mm
Case material: Polished stainless steel; domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on both sides; transparent black case back; signature fir tree crown
Dial: Slightly speckled ivory grand feu enamel by Donzé Cadrans S.A.; two-tone enamelled transfers; blued steel fir tree hands
Water resistance: 5 bars (50m/165ft)
Strap: Grey grained calf leather, tone-on-tone stitching; polished steel pin buckle; 20/18mm
Limited edition: 99 pieces
The Movement
Calibre: Sellita SW266-1, élaboré grade
Functions: Regulator: hours in counter at 12 o’clock, central minutes, seconds in counter at 6 o’clock
Winding: Automatic; openworked oscillating weight
Power reserve: Approx. 38 hours
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Jewels: 31
Images courtesy of Louis Erard.